Schiaparelli’s Icarus
Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection, unveiled during Paris Couture Week, captivated audiences with its avant-garde designs and masterful craftsmanship. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry drew inspiration from the myth of Icarus, infusing the collection with themes of ambition and the pursuit of perfection.
The story of Icarus is a classic tale from Greek mythology that serves as a cautionary fable about hubris, ambition, and the dangers of overreaching. Icarus was the son of Daedalus, a brilliant inventor and craftsman. Daedalus had been imprisoned by King Minos of Crete along with his son Icarus, as a punishment for helping the hero Theseus escape from the labyrinth Daedalus himself had designed. To escape from their imprisonment, Daedalus, ever the inventor, created two pairs of wings made from feathers and wax. These wings would allow him and Icarus to fly away from the island. Before their flight, Daedalus warned his son of the dangers that lay ahead. He told Icarus not to fly too high, because the heat of the sun would melt the wax holding his wings together, nor fly too low, as the dampness of the sea would weigh the wings down. However, once they took flight, Icarus, intoxicated by the freedom of the skies and the thrill of flight, ignored his father's warnings. He flew higher and higher, closer to the sun. One by one, the feathers began to fall off, and the wings broke apart. Unable to maintain flight, Icarus plummeted into the sea and drowned.
‘Daedalus And Icarus Nfrench Colored Engraving 1660’
I believe there are parallels between both the story of Icarus and this collection was Roseberry’s interpretation of flying too close to the sun. Ever since Roseberry became creative director of Schiaparelli they have been untouchable. Every couture collection trying to top the last. Instead of flying too close to the sun like Icarus Roseberry is using this collection to ground himself as a designer and it was done masterfully.
‘look 9’ : “Embroidered opera coat in safran-colored satin neoprene with embroidered floral motif cut from a single piece of fabric and trimmed with ostrich feathers bathed in glycerine. It is worn over a sand-colored double satin column skirt and a mink-colored ostrich feathers bra”. — Schiaparelli
The show, aptly titled "Icarus," opened with models adorned in gleaming gold garments, symbolizing the sun and the mythological ascent of Icarus. This celestial theme was further emphasized by the use of industrial materials like feathers and boning, juxtaposed against traditional silks, creating a striking contrast between the ethereal and the earthly. Roseberry's collection featured meticulously tailored suits and dresses in black, ivory, and champagne hues, often accented with ostrich feathers as omage to the ancient story. The designs exuded a sense of Hollywood glamour reminiscent of the golden age, with exaggerated silhouettes and intricate detailing that showcased the designer's commitment to couture excellence. Roseberry's dedication to blending traditional techniques with innovative materials and shapes was evident throughout the collection. The use of feathers and boning as well as other industrial elements made the simple color pallet pop and really show what it would feel like to fly too close to the sun reaffirming the house's status as the ultimate beacon of innovation and the pinnacle of luxury in the fashion world.
‘look 31’ : “Strapless corset dress in nude mesh with exaggerated hips, embellished with draped pearl grey duchesse satin and embroidered with flowers and the Maison’s emblematic codes”. — Schiaparelli
‘look 29’ : “Woven dress in faded pistachio organza embroidered with crystal water drops on the inside of each interlace and finished with a cascade of fringes. It is worn with a matching fringe stole over the shoulders”. — Schiaparelli
